Now we are ready to connect the steering wheel linkage to the rack and pinion. I want the steering wheel to be located on the left side of the cart so that there will be more passenger space on the right side. The connection to the rack and pinion is in the center of the cart. So how do we make a connection that is off center? If you said use some universal joints you are correct. The basic components of the system are the steering wheel,U-Joints, connecting rods with splined ends which fit into U joints and 5/8" Rod. In this photo there is also a bearing mount that has already been fabricated. I will show the detail on that shortly.
These are some 5/8" pillow block bearings that will hold the steering shaft in place.
Here is a close up of the U joints and connecting rods. The rods have male splined ends that fit into female splines of the U joints. You will notice that there is a hole for a screw in the ends of the U joints to tighten them to the rods. I got these at DesertKarts.com. We will need 2 joints in order to compensate for the offset. There may be an easier way to do this but I am not sure what it is.
Where do you start when trying to fit the components into place? It seems most logical to me to start at the ends. So which end do you start with first? I don't think it makes any difference. I have chosen to start at the rack and pinion at the front of the cart. The idea is to position the U joints with the least amount of angle. This will allow for the smoothest and easiest rotation of the shaft. I had to buy a female coupler to connect to the rack and pinion. The coupling is splined all the way through so I just decided to bore it out a little bit and weld it on because the blank end of the splined male coupler almost fit inside it. I took it to work and asked my son Jason to bore it out a little bit. He just took it and shoved it in with his bare hands. Oh to be young and strong again. You will be able to tell where to cut off the rod by holding the U joint on the rod and making sure it will clear the uprights of the nose assembly.
Once you have determined the length that is required you simply cut off the excess rod and weld it to the coupler. Be sure to weld it on straight.
Now you know where your connection point is at the rack and pinion U joint.
Next we will need to go to the top of the cart and locate the location of the steering wheel. It will be pretty close to where it is. (Sorry I think I was trying to have a heat stroke.)
We will be using a Pillow block bearing to hold the steering wheel in place so it can rotate. It requires a mounting plate to hold it in place. A piece of 1/4" thick plate steel works nicely. Drill the holes where needed to attach the bearing.
A piece of 3/4" square tube is used to hold the mount firmly in place on the cross bar. You need to weld on a piece that is a little too long so that it can be cut down to fit exactly where you want it.
I know the bolts are a little long but they are all that I had on hand. We can now determine the location of the bearing Assembly.
The next part is a little tricky. You need to decide exactly where to locate the steering wheel as well as the angle to point it in. This is a good time to put the magnets to work. They have not been doing much lately. One of the magnets does not think he should work. He thinks he's a magnate. I convinced him otherwise. The ideer here is to cut the 3/4" square tube at the correct angle so it can be welded to the front cross bar. This is where a couple of extra monkeys would come in handy. I know this is not a very good picture but I have a ruler held in place with magnets while holding the mount with my left hand at what I think is approximately the correct angle. I can now use my right hand to run a magic marker along the ruler and mark the correct angle to cut the 3/4" tube. Try to remember to remove the cap from the magic marker before having everything in place. I could remove it easy enough with my teeth but the grease that was on it wasn't real tasty.
It was not real easy taking a one handed picture. I don't think I showed it in the component parts picture but there is also a splined fitting that fits to the steering wheel. It comes in a kit that can be purchased at Northern Tool. It is called a steering shaft and hub kit. It is made to fit with the steering wheel pictured. We only need a short piece of the shaft that comes with the kit to use with the steering Assembly. We will use the rest of the shaft for the accelerator.
The steering wheel is connected using a male splined end as is the U joint it will be connected to. We will need to weld these two pieces together. The easiest way to weld these two pieces together straight would be to clamp them in a V clamp. The only problem is that these two pieces are slightly different in diameter so I will have to try to center them as best I can. It is a good idea to chamfer the ends that are to be welded so as to increase the area to be welded. It is probably of no importance here as there will be very little stress on the steering rod in this application. Now a drive shaft would be a different story. Try to weld them as straight as possible.
Now we can make the final measurement to connect the two U joints together.
A piece of 3/4" square tube is used to hold the mount firmly in place on the cross bar. You need to weld on a piece that is a little too long so that it can be cut down to fit exactly where you want it.
I know the bolts are a little long but they are all that I had on hand. We can now determine the location of the bearing Assembly.
The next part is a little tricky. You need to decide exactly where to locate the steering wheel as well as the angle to point it in. This is a good time to put the magnets to work. They have not been doing much lately. One of the magnets does not think he should work. He thinks he's a magnate. I convinced him otherwise. The ideer here is to cut the 3/4" square tube at the correct angle so it can be welded to the front cross bar. This is where a couple of extra monkeys would come in handy. I know this is not a very good picture but I have a ruler held in place with magnets while holding the mount with my left hand at what I think is approximately the correct angle. I can now use my right hand to run a magic marker along the ruler and mark the correct angle to cut the 3/4" tube. Try to remember to remove the cap from the magic marker before having everything in place. I could remove it easy enough with my teeth but the grease that was on it wasn't real tasty.
It was not real easy taking a one handed picture. I don't think I showed it in the component parts picture but there is also a splined fitting that fits to the steering wheel. It comes in a kit that can be purchased at Northern Tool. It is called a steering shaft and hub kit. It is made to fit with the steering wheel pictured. We only need a short piece of the shaft that comes with the kit to use with the steering Assembly. We will use the rest of the shaft for the accelerator.
The steering wheel is connected using a male splined end as is the U joint it will be connected to. We will need to weld these two pieces together. The easiest way to weld these two pieces together straight would be to clamp them in a V clamp. The only problem is that these two pieces are slightly different in diameter so I will have to try to center them as best I can. It is a good idea to chamfer the ends that are to be welded so as to increase the area to be welded. It is probably of no importance here as there will be very little stress on the steering rod in this application. Now a drive shaft would be a different story. Try to weld them as straight as possible.
Now we can make the final measurement to connect the two U joints together.It will require a short piece of rod to connect the two pieces. There are a couple of set screws on the pillow block bearing that will hold the steering shaft in place. This will also allow for a little flexibility in the final shaft length as well.
It was a little tricky trying to measure the final length and take a picture at the same time.
But you should have seen me take this next photo. In order to get this shot I had to hold the camera in my mouth and push the button with my tongue. Not Really, that would be rediculous. I really went to the pet store and bought a monkey to take the picture. You will notice that I am wearing shorts because it is so hot in the garage right now. Those little spots on my leg are burns from weld spatter.
The final two joints of the shaft can now be welded together. One of the nice things about this joint is that it does not really matter how straight it is welded together. After all it is between 2 U joints that are designed to compensate for offset.
I was pleased with the ease in which the entire Assembly moved when it was all put together. The girls should have no problem with the steering. I will consider adding another pillow block bearing at the rack and pinion if it seems to be needed. I have not tightened down all of the connections of the U joints yet but the extra bearing does not appear to be needed at this point.
It was a little tricky trying to measure the final length and take a picture at the same time.
But you should have seen me take this next photo. In order to get this shot I had to hold the camera in my mouth and push the button with my tongue. Not Really, that would be rediculous. I really went to the pet store and bought a monkey to take the picture. You will notice that I am wearing shorts because it is so hot in the garage right now. Those little spots on my leg are burns from weld spatter.
The final two joints of the shaft can now be welded together. One of the nice things about this joint is that it does not really matter how straight it is welded together. After all it is between 2 U joints that are designed to compensate for offset.
I was pleased with the ease in which the entire Assembly moved when it was all put together. The girls should have no problem with the steering. I will consider adding another pillow block bearing at the rack and pinion if it seems to be needed. I have not tightened down all of the connections of the U joints yet but the extra bearing does not appear to be needed at this point.
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