Sometimes it seems that progress is being made and then at other times it seems that things are at a stand still or maybe even going backwards. We have all heard the saying " two steps forward and one backward equals progress". I suppose that works out as an average. But averages are hard to factor when you are in the middle of the battle. When you find out that you just spent two hours putting something together with the wrong parts it is difficult to feel the progress that will eventually be averaged in once you spend two more hours taking it all apart so you can start again. It is frustrating but it is all part of the learning process. Sometimes we know something but we don't know that we know it. What I mean is that if I read something in a book and somehow retain that knowledge intellectually, it may not be until some point in the future that a true understanding will come about by observing that knowledge in motion. As an example I have studied camber and caster and toe in and out as it relates to front suspension. I remember reading that you want to avoid negative caster in a front suspension because of the control problems it causes. So I always wondered why the nose section on some designs have it tilted upwards at a 8 to 10 degree angle. Imagine my surprise when putting the project together and while tilting the nose into position visually seeing how the caster angle is put at a positive angle. So my point is that if you are following a well designed set of plans then chances are you will come out with something that works reasonably well even though you may not understand much about why it is done that way. I bring this up because as I have admitted before I am not a design engineer but I am able to take workable ideas from other designers and hopefully incorporate them in scale to this particular project.

With that said it is time to start the front suspension. This is probably the most technical part of the whole project. It does not have to be but I want something that will be fully adjustable and be able to take jolts from bumps and dips without greatly effecting the control or steering. I also want it to be as comfortable of a ride as possible for my girls. My CAD program ( computer assisted design) is not good at modeling movement of components. I have to painstakingly move the individual parts around in 2 dimensions. There are special computer software programs designed specifically for modeling the movement of suspension components. They also sell yatchs in Galveston bay but that doesn't mean I am getting one. So i will work with what I have and rely on other proven designs and hopefully come out with something that works reasonably well. If you are the kind of person that likes to do things once and move on then you will not enjoy a project like this. If you have that much tallent you are not reading this anyway. I have had to untack parts numerous times and put them back together in order to get them just right. You just can't be afraid to start over.

The first parts to fabricate are the front bumpers of the nose. They are made of one inch square tube x 1/16" wall. I welded a piece of 1/16" plate on the open ends so that no moisture can get inside. The initial welded part looks pretty ugly until it is sanded using the angle grinder with a sanding pad.

The finished Bumpers.

I am using the same 1" square tubing with a 1/8" wall that the frame is made out of for the rest of the nose pieces. You want this part to be as strong as posible and not flex at all. When the other parts are cut to length they are held in place using the wood blocks so they can be tack welded together. The chipboard pattern is very useful in acurately locating the parts.

Once the side pieces are made exactly the same then they can be connected together. I will use some 1" x .090" wall round tube to connect the pieces to each other. Why do I use 1" round tube? It is easier to square the pieces to each other and I have it on hand to form the roll cage. However you can use whatever you have on hand.

You want to be sure it is square side to side and top to bottom. I had to untack and reweld more than once before I got it right. When making tack welds it is a good idea to try and put them in a place that will be easy to access with the angle grinder so they can easily be ground off. If you use the cut off grinding blade in the grinder then most of the time you will only need to partially grind the welds and give it a smart wack with a hammer and the welds will easily break loose. Then you will need to grind off the old welds so you can start over. Don't be afraid to start over even if you have to make the entire piece again. Practice makes perfect or at least better. Never finish welding anything until you have fit all pieces together to be sure they fit.

Simple holding clamps work well to hold the parts in position for welding. You want to be sure this is square because the proper movement of the suspension is at stake.

Here is the Nose section welded together. I got a little ahead in the photos and you will notice the brackets for the A arms already welded on the right side.